Eaton Autoshift Will Not Go Into Reverse
Eaton Autoshift Will Not Go Into Reverse |
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| jmb 06 April 2010 04:15 PM |
After driving my truck 35 miles or so today, putting it in reverse 5 times it decided it did not want to go in reverse. I push the clutch to the floor, slip into reverse and the dash indicator starts flash R and N very quickly. If I ease the clutch out I just get a straight blinking N. Gator says it is probably a sensor or loose wire. Anybody had this problem in the past? Thanks to all. Regards JB |
| Hogrydr 06 April 2010 04:18 PM |
John without having much to go on to trouble shoot. It sounds like a clutch brake either out of adjustment or worn beyond limits ????
Sorry your having troubles ... |
| Ray H 06 April 2010 05:28 PM |
Jim hit a very valid possibility. When I got my 670 a couple of years ago, I had more than one problem with my A/S over the first few months. Put about $3,000 into it, including clutch brake adjustment, clutch fluid cleaning & flush, new XY Shifter, new Trans Controller Module, along with a few other things. I just decided to bite the bullet and do whatever it took to make it right. Figured I didn't need problems when driving across hundreds of miles of desert. One good thing about these HDTs, when you fix something, and if you do it right, you probably won't ever have that problem again. This truck will outlive me. Keep us posted on the outcome. Ray |
| jmb 06 April 2010 05:39 PM |
What is perplexing is that it goes into drive just fine. I let it cool down, disconnected the battery and it shifted just fine until it got up to normal operating temp. Then no reverse again. We are checking out the connections as we speak. Will keep you posted. Regards and thanks JB |
| Bob Speckman 06 April 2010 05:40 PM |
Looks like we were posting at the same time, my questions were answered in your above post |
| L'iil Black Dog 06 April 2010 05:41 PM |
JBM; Have you tried to shut the truck down "in neutral of course" allowed it to cool some and then tried it? This will sort you in the electric or mechanical direction. Curt |
| L'iil Black Dog 06 April 2010 05:45 PM |
JMB; I just read your last post, I think you hit the nail on the head! I would push to a reverse shift coil, sounds like it is not holding when heated. Just my 2cents. Curt |
| jmb 06 April 2010 05:56 PM |
Where is this shift coil located? |
| L'iil Black Dog 06 April 2010 08:11 PM |
JB Take a look at the RoadRanger website for the breakdown, I do not know personally. The reason I believe this to be the case is, after having the same issue I went to the RoadRanger site found out how to drop codes " have you done that yet?" read said codes called 2 different dealers which lead me to the x/y shifter for my problem. But remember these are just manual transmissions with automated shift mechanisms, with all I have heard and read it is usually a electrical connection, battery, shift pack/coil, shaft brake problem. I have not heard of many ECM/brain problems, the rest of the trans is about the same as the manual and seems to be pretty reliable. Hope this helps? Curt |
| Hogrydr 07 April 2010 04:34 PM |
Sorry been very busy. I just haven't been able to keep watch on the board.
John |
| jmb 08 April 2010 04:54 PM |
Thanks for everybody's input. I have narrowed it down to a transmission tempo issue of some sort. When the transmission gets up to normal operational temp, that is when the shift problem happens. Stop let it cool down a little bit, 10 degrees and it shifts fine. The clutch shaft is stopping when it should. Off to Waco TX Volvo on Friday. Thanks again. Regards JB |
| Hogrydr 08 April 2010 05:00 PM |
John You do have oil up to the full level in the tranny don't you ....??? |
| L'iil Black Dog 11 April 2010 12: 56 AM |
John, Were you able to access the codes? I sure hate for you to pay for something I think you can fix yourself, or at least know what your looking at as far as the repair. Please before you take it in! Drop the codes! Curt |
| jmb 11 April 2010 03:08 PM |
I took the truck to the Waco dealer early Friday morning. I could not get the problem to replicate for the tech, naturally. Anyway we now have 3 hrs. of diagnostics and no answer yet. I did not drop the codes a my I don't know how and my dash display is dead. I use a VMSpc but it can only do so much.
Jim, |
| Hogrydr 11 April 2010 03:55 PM |
John it could affect the temperature condition you described. But I'm thinking it is probably a corroded connector or bad winding in one of the shifter motors since it is intermittent ... |
| jmb 14 April 2010 04:55 PM |
Jim, I just check and they said all connections are good. The service manager was not sure about the windings though. They thought they had it fixed with an Eaton diagnosis of a reverse switch ball valve. That was not it. Their gut feeling is that it is an ECM and harness. That seems to be a common problem for the dealer has experienced over the years. S aid they would check all the harness pin connections tomorrow. I remember back when I was in the new car business, F&I, many years ago we would occasionally get a problem that we just could not bill our full time on. Is there a negotiating point anywhere. I bet they have 8 to 10 or more hours in the problem and have to start over tomorrow. Anybody got any ideas? Thanks JB |
| Jeff- C IL 14 April 2010 05:43 PM |
This problem seems to be directly connected to the temperature of the transmission. To me that would indicate that the problem is in a sensor or an actuator actually on the transmission, not a wiring or ECM problem. Overheating on the ECM of the reverse solenoid (actuator, motor, whatever) driver MIGHT be a problem, but that should only appear if you are in reverse a LOT, rather than just when the oil is hot. Just driving in D until the oil is hot and then it won't go into R--you haven't been loading the ECM R output to overheat it--if you follow me. I DO NOT think a connection or ECM problem would cause your symptoms, those should not be related to the temp. Or is the ECM mounted right on the tranny where it gets HOT?
Trans brake would be the other culprit after it heated up, but sounds like you have eliminated that. Now, when shifting a manual, I notice a big difference in "shiftability" when the tranny is cold and hot. Its harder to shift once the oil gets warm. I really think your problem lies in the actuator mechanism for the reverse gear, or a mechanical problem with reverse making it hard to get shifted. There is something mechanical sticking at higher temps, or a coil on the actuator is weak. Not what you want to hear, but I'm thinking an internal mechanical linkage problem is most likely. I haven't worked on one of these, so take my advise for what its worth! I'm just a farmer/mechanic/electrician, not a truck specialist. |
| jmb 17 April 2010 03:39 PM |
The Waco TX. Volvo dealer now thinks they have the problem fixed. It turned out the 35.00 reverse switch they first installed was faulty. A bad part. They changed it out and the trans started working. They only charged me for 1 install, got Eaton to eat 2.3 hours took off 3 hours and dropped their rate by 10.00 per hour to 80 and I got out for 702.00. They originally quoted me up to 5 hours diagnostic time so I feel kind like we both got a deal, not a good deal, not a real bad deal, just a deal. Of course that assumes the problem is really fixed. They told me that it was hard to find anybody at Eaton who was familiar "w/ a transmission this old". Thanks for everyone's input. Regards JB |
| Hogrydr 18 April 2010 07:36 AM |
John this is what I use when I trouble shoot the Autoshift. It also tells you how to retrieve the codes both old and new. Maybe this will help. I'm not sure what they are calling "the reverse switch??" and how, if it is on the pedestal it reacts to the heat build up ??? Jim |
| jmb 18 April 2010 05:48 PM |
Thanks Jim, I go pick it up tomorrow and will get a more complete description of this part. Thanks JB |
| HERO Maker 19 April 2010 12:14 PM |
Jim, Well, this could be one of those things taken "out of context" but I just loved this warning on Page 2: To avoid damage to the transmission during towing: Not sure how far any of us would get while we are towing!!!! This probably has to do with the vehicle you are towing, but then again, aren't all these trucks towing something? Or maybe it just was stating what you needed to do when you are being towed? Not a position anyone of us likes. Not real clear, but that's the way of manuals these days. Just thought it was funny. |
| jmb 19 April 2010 07:13 PM |
Jim, The part replaced was reverse ball switch witch I was told is peculiar to this model transmission, maybe this year. Switch is located in front of the xy shifter on the outside of trans. Disconnected the xy shifter and driveshaft, manually shifted the trans and unit shifted well. Tested replaced switch and found it was open. Put in second new switch and it worked fine. I drove 100 miles today and it work well. Of course on the way home from the Volvo dealer the radiator accumulator tank hose, the one with fittings on either end, 3/8 inch in diameter or burst so and I got to call my mobile mechanic to replace a 9 inch 50.00 hose. After looking at the hose, goes into the block, kind of hidden by the upper radiator hose it was clear that it was in bad shape and I should have caught it on my pre trip. There is no heat shield between the manifold and the hose, today. That is a simple fix with a piece of sheet metal and that will happen. Another lesson learned. I am glad I had 30 years of boat experience so know big toys break hard and often. New hoses are on the way. Can't believe I had not replaced them already, but I checked my file and had not. We also tested the antifreeze and receipts and found the filter had not been replaced in my last 2 oil and filter changes. kind of a pisser. PM and not knowing what to look for bites me in the butt again. Regards JB PS I had the antifreeze changed at a Volvo dealer in Tucson in 10/08. they did not change it either |
| Hogrydr 19 April 2010 07:36 PM |
John Glad you got going, hope this is the last of the problems for a while. Jim |