Removing Huck Bolts
8/1/2015
The information in Quick Huck Bolts question might come in handy for those who intend to single out their trucks or to those who intend to build their own toter bed.
Quick Huck Bolts Question |
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| ghillie 19 May 2009 02:10 PM |
The last time I cut Huck bolts off I used a cut-off wheel, and it worked great. But with my latest project I need to remove Hucks behind the fuel tank. Using a cut-off wheel would be difficult at best, and likely nearly impossible with the tank in place. Since I don't want to drop the tank, can the Hucks be cut off with a sawsall, or are they hardened too much? |
| SIBERNUT 19 May 2009 04:10 PM |
Hot wrench and shield the tank. I think you're gonna be there a long time with a sawzall. Or, use the whizzer on the other end of the bolt inside the frame. Make a few cuts in it any way you can and maybe a chisel. |
| D K. 19 May 2009 10:29 PM |
John, Sawzall is going to be a tough tool to get through Hucks with. Ron's reverse side access is going to be your best bet if you can't get to them from the tank side. If you have an air chisel available to you, try cutting a perpendicular cut into the head of the hock in a cross pattern, then use the chisel to peel each quartered section off at a time, that is your best bet, although not friendly to any neighboring tea parties. Oxy/Acetylene will be your easiest method, but the inside of the frame rail is usually riddled with wiring or other |
| Jeff- C IL 20 May 2009 10:35 AM |
I believe that your best bet here is to shield the tank with another plate of steel and use a torch. I had some success heating the nuts red hot and then using an air wrench from inside to spin out the bolt. Took a little time (and several heating steps) but was a lot more controllable on the torch flame than just torching. Didn't always work though. |
| ghillie 22 May 2009 11:15 AM |
Thanks guys, If I can find a cut-off disc tool that isn't a 90* design, but comes off the front of the tool I will go that route. Otherwise I will just drill the frame. I wanted to use existing holes rather than drill new holes, but drilling the frame is more desirable than torching or a hammer chisel. Thanks for the input. |
| TomMarik 18 May 2009 11:26 AM |
I have one rattling Huck bolt. It won't stay tight. Suggestions? |
| Billr 22 May 2009 12:01 PM |
Cut it off and replace with a Grade 8 bolt, flat washers and locking nut. (No lock washers on frames.) Bill |
| Billr 22 May 2009 12:03 PM |
John Don't worry about torching it if you can fit the torch in there and manipulate it enough to cut the hock nut off. Did loads on mine, no issue at all. Bill |
| D K. 22 May 2009 09:55 PM |
Tom, If the Huck is not in a critical point, you can quiet it down until your next service stop with a small glob of silicone sealant smeared into the hole's edge. This is NOT a solution for anything but helping you to get a capable shop to cut out the Huck via either torch or cutting wheel etc. Make sure it is replaced with Grade 8 hardware as posted above. Flat washers only with pinch lock nuts. |
| TomMarik 30 May 2009 10:06 AM |
Thanks, it's for a brace between the bumper and the headlight frame. Won't ever fall off -- just the bolt that's rattling. So, I'll try the easy fix for once. Thanks again |